Igreja do Carmo

How often do you find two churches, side by side, separated by a strange, one meter wide house? Well, you have the chance to see it in Porto.

The Igreja do Carmo and the Igreja dos Carmelitas are two beautiful churches located on Rua do Carmo. The Igreja do Carmo was built for Carmelite monks, while the Igreja dos Carmelitas was built for Carmelite nuns. Some say the house in between was built to keep the nuns and the monks from fraternizing. The real reason is probably more pragmatic, it would have looked strange to have a skinny space between the two buildings. Whichever story you believe, the house was in use until the 1980’s for various purposes, including housing for the chaplains and the artists who worked on the churches.

The church on the right, the Igreja do Carmo is a striking example of the Baroque architecture that flourished in the 18th century. Its facade is adorned with intricate carvings and decorative elements, showcasing the craftsmanship of the time. The exterior is predominantly made of granite, which gives it a solid and majestic appearance. On the side of the building you will find a wall of azulejo tiles, added in 1912, detailing the founding of the Carmelite order.

As you enter the Igreja do Carmo, you will be amazed by the grandeur of the interior. The church features a single nave with ornate altarpieces and gilded details that create a sense of opulence. The beautiful ceiling frescoes add a touch of color and vibrancy to the space.

You can also visit the catacombs at the back of the church. The stairs will take you down to view some mummified remains of monks who served in the order, as well as the very ornate silverware of the order of Carmo.

Visit Notes

Let me say first that the outside of the church is gorgeous, even though during our visit the tiles were covered in some sort of protective gauze. I highly recommend seeing the outside.

The inside is another story. I’m not sure how much I enjoyed this visit. I think on my list of sights in Porto it’s somewhere near the bottom. I’m not entirely sure why… maybe it’s because everything just felt a little disappointing. I was expecting the catacombs to be more interesting, but it was just some bones in a hole. I was expecting the view from balcony at the front of the church to be better, but there wasn’t much to see. The church itself was dark and felt a little unloved. The house in between was uninteresting and smelled of mold.

There are much better things to see in Porto, my suggestion is to see the outside and save your money by skipping the inside.